Chapter 18 - Fashion and Physiology

by Louisa May Alcott

　　"Please, sir, I guess you'd better step up right away, or it will be toolate, for I heard Miss Rose say she knew you wouldn't like it, and she'dnever dare to let you see her."Phebe said this as she popped her head into the study, where Dr. Alec satreading a new book."They are at it, are they?" he said, looking up quickly, and giving himselfa shake, as if ready for a battle of some sort."Yes, sir, as hard as they can talk, and Miss Rose don't seem to know whatto do, for the things are ever so stylish, and she looks elegant in 'em;though I like her best in the old ones," answered Phebe."You are a girl of sense. I'll settle matters for Rosy, and you'll lend ahand. Is everything ready in her room, and are you sure you understand howthey go?""Oh, yes, sir; but they are so funny! I know Miss Rose will think it's ajoke," and Phebe laughed as if something tickled her immensely."Never mind what she thinks so long as she obeys. Tell her to do it for mysake, and she will find it the best joke she ever saw. I expect to have atough time of it, but we'll win yet," said the Doctor, as he marchedupstairs with the book in his hand, and an odd smile on his face.There was such a clatter of tongues in the sewing-room that no one heardhis tap at the door, so he pushed it open and took an observation. AuntPlenty, Aunt Clara, and Aunt Jessie were all absorbed in gazing at Rose,who slowly revolved between them and the great mirror, in a full wintercostume of the latest fashion."Bless my heart! worse even than I expected," thought the Doctor, with aninward groan, for, to his benighted eyes, the girl looked like a trussedfowl, and the fine new dress had neither grace, beauty, nor fitness torecommend it.The suit was of two peculiar shades of blue, so arranged that patches oflight and dark distracted the eye. The upper skirt was tied so lightly backthat it was impossible to take a long step, and the under one was so loadedwith plaited frills that it "wobbled" no other word will express itungracefully, both fore and aft. A bunch of folds was gathered up justbelow the waist behind, and a great bow rode a-top. A small jacket of thesame material was adorned with a high ruff at the back, and laid well openover the breast, to display some lace and a locket. Heavy fringes, bows,puffs, ruffles, and revers finished off the dress, making one's head acheto think of the amount of work wasted, for not a single graceful linestruck the eye, and the beauty of the material was quite lost in theprofusion of ornament.A high velvet hat, audaciously turned up in front, with a bunch of pinkroses and a sweeping plume, was cocked over one ear, and, with her curlsbraided into a club at the back of her neck, Rose's head looked more likethat of a dashing young cavalier than a modest little girl's. High-heeledboots tilted her well forward, a tiny muff pinioned her arms, and a spottedveil, tied so closely over her face that her eyelashes were rumpled by it,gave the last touch of absurdity to her appearance."Now she looks like other girls, and as I like to see her," Mrs. Clara wassaying, with an air of great satisfaction."She does look like a fashionable young lady, but somehow I miss my littleRose, for children dressed like children in my day," answered Aunt Plenty,peering through her glasses with a troubled look, for she could not imaginethe creature before her ever sitting in her lap, running to wait upon her,or making the house gay with a child's blithe presence."Things have changed since your day, Aunt, and it takes time to get used tonew ways. But you, Jessie, surely like this costume better than the dowdythings Rose has been wearing all summer. Now, be honest, and own you do,"said Mrs. Clara, bent on being praised for her work."Well, dear to be quite honest, then, I think it is frightful," answeredMrs. Jessie, with a candour that caused revolving Rose to stop in dismay."Hear, hear," cried a deep voice, and with a general start the ladiesbecame aware that the enemy was among them.Rose blushed up to her hat brim, and stood, looking, as she felt, like afool, while Mrs. Clara hastened to explain."Of course, I don't expect you to like it, Alec, but I don't consider you ajudge of what is proper and becoming for a young lady. Therefore, I havetaken the liberty of providing a pretty street suit for Rose. She need notwear it if you object, for I know we promised to let you do what you likedwith the poor dear for a year.""It is a street costume, is it?" asked the Doctor, mildly. "Do you know, Inever should have guessed that it was meant for winter weather and brisklocomotion. Take a turn, Rosy, and let me see all its beauties andadvantages."Rose tried to walk off with her usual free tread, but the under-skirt gotin her way, the over-skirt was so tight she could not take a long step, andher boots made it impossible to carry herself perfectly erect."I haven't got used to it yet," she said, petulantly, kicking at her train,as she turned to toddle back again."Suppose a mad dog or a runaway horse was after you, could you get out ofthe way without upsetting, Colonel," asked the Doctor, with a twinkle inthe eyes that were fixed on the rakish hat."Don't think I could, but I'll try," and Rose made a rush across the room.Her boot-heels caught on a rug, several strings broke, her hat tipped overher eyes, and she plunged promiscuously into a chair, where she satlaughing so infectiously that all but Mrs. Clara joined in her mirth."I should say that a walking suit in which one could not walk, and a wintersuit which exposes the throat, head, and feet to cold and damp, was rathera failure, Clara, especially as it has no beauty to reconcile one to itsutter unfitness," said Dr. Alec, as he helped Rose undo her veil, adding,in a low tone, "Nice thing for the eyes; you'll soon see spots when it'soff as well as when it's on, and, by and by, be a case for an oculist.""No beauty!" cried Mrs. Clara, warmly, "Now, that is just a man'sblindness. This is the best of silk and camel's hair, real ostrichfeathers, and an expensive ermine muff. What could be in better taste, ormore proper for a young girl?""I'll shew you, if Rose will go to her room and oblige me by putting onwhat she finds there," answered the Doctor, with unexpected readiness."Alec, if it is a Bloomer, I shall protest. I've been expecting it, but Iknow I cannot bear to see that pretty child sacrificed to your wild ideasof health. Tell me it isn't a Bloomer!" and Mrs. Clara clasped her handsimploringly."It is not.""Thank Heaven!" and she resigned herself with a sigh of relief, addingplaintively, "I did hope you'd accept my suit, for poor Rose has beenafflicted with frightful clothes long enough to spoil the taste of anygirl.""You talk of my afflicting the child, and then make a helpless guy likethat of her!" answered the Doctor, pointing to the little fashion platethat was scuttling out of sight as fast as it could go.He closed the door with a shrug, but before anyone could speak, his quickeye fell upon an object which caused him to frown, and demand in anindignant tone"After all I have said, were you really going to tempt my girl with thoseabominable things?""I thought we put them away when she wouldn't wear them," murmured Mrs.Clara, whisking a little pair of corsets out of sight with guilty haste. "Ionly brought them to try, for Rose is growing stout, and will have nofigure if it is not attended to soon," she added, with an air of calmconviction that roused the Doctor still more, for this was one of hisespecial abominations."Growing stout! Yes, thank Heaven, she is, and shall continue to do it, forNature knows how to mould a woman better than any corset-maker, and I won'thave her interfered with. My dear Clara, have you lost your senses that youcan for a moment dream of putting a growing girl into an instrument oftorture like this?" and with a sudden gesture he plucked forth theoffending corsets from under the sofa cushion, and held them out with theexpression one would wear on beholding the thumbscrews or the rack ofancient times."Don't be absurd, Alec. There is no torture about it, for tight lacing isout of fashion, and we have nice, sensible things nowadays. Everyone wearsthem; even babies have stiffened waists to support their weak littlebacks," began Mrs. Clara, rushing to the defence of the pet delusion ofmost women."I know it, and so the poor little souls have weak backs all their days, astheir mothers had before them. It is vain to argue the matter, and I won'ttry, but I wish to state, once for all, that if I ever see a pair ofcorsets near Rose, I'll put them in the fire, and you may send the bill tome."As he spoke the corsets were on their way to destruction, but Mrs. Jessiecaught his arm, exclaiming merrily, "Don't burn them, for mercy sake, Alec;they are full of whalebones, and will make a dreadful odour. Give them tome. I'll see that they do no harm.""Whalebones, indeed! A regular fence of them, and metal gate-posts infront. As if our own bones were not enough, if we'd give them a chance todo their duty," growled the Doctor, yielding up the bone of contention witha last shake of contempt. Then his face cleared suddenly, and he held uphis finger, saying, with a smile, "Hear those girls laugh; cramped lungscould not make hearty music like that."Peals of laughter issued from Rose's room, and smiles involuntarily touchedthe lips of those who listened to the happy sound."Some new prank of yours, Alec?" asked Aunt Plenty, indulgently, for shehad come to believe in most of her nephew's odd notions, because theyseemed to work so well."Yes, ma'am, my last, and I hope you will like it. I discovered what Clarawas at, and got my rival suit ready for to-day. I'm not going to 'afflict'Rose, but let her choose, and if I'm not entirely mistaken, she will likemy rig best. While we wait I'll explain, and then you will appreciate thegeneral effect better. I got hold of this little book, and was struck withits good sense and good taste, for it suggests a way to clothe women bothhealthfully and handsomely, and that is a great point. It begins at thefoundations, as you will see if you will look at these pictures, and Ishould think women would rejoice at this lightening of their burdens."As he spoke, the Doctor laid the book before Aunt Plenty, who obedientlybrought her spectacles to bear upon the illustrations, and after a longlook exclaimed, with a scandalised face"Mercy on us, these things are like the night-drawers Jamie wears! Youdon't mean to say you want Rose to come out in this costume? It's notproper, and I won't consent to it!""I do mean it, and I'm sure my sensible aunt will consent when sheunderstands that these well I'll call them by an Indian name, and saypajamas are for underwear, and Rose can have as pretty frocks as she likesoutside. These two suits of flannel, each in one piece from head to foot,with a skirt or so hung on this easily-fitting waist, will keep the childwarm without burdening her with belts, and gathers, and buckles, andbunches round the waist, and leave free the muscles that need plenty ofroom to work in. She shall never have the back-ache if I can help it, northe long list of ills you dear women think you cannot escape.""I don't consider it modest, and I'm sure Rose will be shocked at it,"began Mrs. Clara, but stopped suddenly, as Rose appeared in the doorway,not looking shocked a bit."Come on, my hygienic model, and let us see you," said her uncle, with anapproving glance, as she walked in, looking so mischievously merry, that itwas evident she enjoyed the joke."Well, I don't see anything remarkable. That is a neat, plain suit; thematerials are good, and it's not unbecoming, if you want her to look like alittle school-girl; but it has not a particle of style, and no one wouldever give it a second glance," said Mrs. Clara, feeling that her lastremark condemned the whole thing."Exactly what I want," answered the provoking Doctor, rubbing his handswith a satisfied air. "Rosy looks now like what she is, a modest littlegirl, who does not want to be stared at. I think she would get a glance ofapproval, though, from people who like sense and simplicity rather thanfuss and feathers. Revolve, my Hebe, and let me refresh my eyes by thesight of you."There was very little to see, however, only a pretty Gabrielle dress, of asoft warm shade of brown, coming to the tops of a trim pair of boots withlow heels. A seal-skin sack, cap, and mittens, with a glimpse of scarlet atthe throat, and the pretty curls tied up with a bright velvet of the samecolour, completed the external adornment, making her look like a robinredbreast wintry, yet warm."How do you like it, Rosy?" asked the Doctor, feeling that her opinion wasmore important to the success of his new idea than that of all the aunts onthe hill."I feel very odd and light, but I'm warm as a toast, and nothing seems tobe in my way," answered Rose, with a skip which displayed shapely gaiterson legs that now might be as free and active as a boy's under the modestskirts of the girl."You can run away from the mad dogs, and walk off at a smart pace withouttumbling on your nose, now, I fancy?""Yes, uncle! suppose the dog coming, I just hop over a wall so and when Iwalk of a cold day, I go like this "Entering fully into the spirit of the thing, Rose swung herself over thehigh back of the sofa as easily as one of her cousins, and then went downthe long hall as if her stout boots were related to the famousseven-leaguers."There! you see how it will be; dress her in that boyish way and she willact like a boy. I do hate all these inventions of strong-minded women!"exclaimed Mrs. Clara, as Rose came back at a run."Ah, but you see some of these sensible inventions come from the brain of afashionable modiste, who will make you more lovely, or what you value more'stylish' outside and comfortable within. Mrs. Van Tassel has been toMadame Stone, and is wearing a full suit of this sort. Van himself told me,when I asked how she was, that she had given up lying on the sofa, and wasgoing about in a most astonishing way, considering her feeble health.""You don't say so! Let me see that book a moment," and Aunt Clara examinedthe new patterns with a more respectful air, for if the elegant Mrs. VanTassel wore these "dreadful things" it would never do to be left behind, inspite of her prejudices.Dr. Alec looked at Mrs. Jessie, and both smiled, for "little Mum" had beenin the secret, and enjoyed it mightily."I thought that would settle it," he said with a nod."I didn't wait for Mrs. Van to lead the way, and for once in my life I haveadopted a new fashion before Clara. My freedom suit is ordered, and you maysee me playing tag with Rose and the boys before long," answered Mrs.Jessie, nodding back at him.Meantime Aunt Plenty was examining Rose's costume, for the hat and sackwere off, and the girl was eagerly explaining the new under-garments."See, auntie, all nice scarlet flannel, and a gay little petticoat, andlong stockings, oh, so warm! Phebe and I nearly died laughing when I putthis rig on, but I like it ever so much. The dress is so comfortable, anddoesn't need any belt or sash, and I can sit without rumpling any trimming,that's such a comfort! I like to be tidy, and so, when I wear fussed-upthings, I'm thinking of my clothes all the time, and that's tiresome. Dosay you like it. I resolved I would, just to please uncle, for he does knowmore about health than anyone else, I'm sure, and I'd wear a bag if heasked me to do it.""I don't ask that, Rose, but I wish you'd weigh and compare the two suits,and then choose which seems best. I leave it to your own commonsense,"answered Dr. Alec, feeling pretty sure he had won."Why, I take this one, of course, uncle. The other is fashionable, and yesI must say I think it's pretty but it's very heavy, and I should have to goround like a walking doll if I wore it. I'm much obliged to auntie, butI'll keep this, please."Rose spoke gently but decidedly, though there was a look of regret when hereye fell on the other suit which Phebe had brought in; and it was verynatural to like to look as other girls did. Aunt Clara sighed; Uncle Alecsmiled, and said heartily"Thank you, dear; now read this book and you will understand why I ask itof you. Then, if you like, I'll give you a new lesson; you asked for oneyesterday, and this is more necessary than French or housekeeping.""Oh, what?" and Rose caught up the book which Mrs. Clara had thrown downwith a disgusted look.Though Dr. Alec was forty, the boyish love of teasing was not yet dead inhim, and, being much elated at his victory, he could not resist thetemptation of shocking Mrs. Clara by suggesting dreadful possibilities, sohe answered, half in earnest, half in jest, "Physiology, Rose. Wouldn't youlike to be a little medical student, with Uncle Doctor for teacher, and beready to take up his practice when he has to stop? If you agree, I'll huntup my old skeleton to-morrow."That was too much for Aunt Clara, and she hastily departed, with her mindin a sad state of perturbation about Mrs. Van Tassel's new costume andRose's new study.